Same power as the 12V MultiPlus, drawing half the current. That is the whole argument for 24V, and on a system built around electric cooking it is a strong one.

The numbers that make the case. An 1800W induction hob at 12V pulls roughly 155 amps of DC. At 24V it pulls about 78. That is the difference between 4/0 cable and 2 AWG, between a 250A fuse and a 125A one, and between a busbar install you plan carefully and one you just do. Everything downstream of the battery gets smaller, cheaper and cooler.

2400W continuous, not 3000. The badge says 3000VA; the continuous rating is 2400W. That is real headroom over an 1800W hob and enough to run a hob and a kettle together if your bank can feed it.

PowerAssist lets you plug into a 15-amp campsite outlet and add battery power on top of it rather than tripping the breaker. The 70A charger refills the bank from shore power or a generator, and the transfer switch moves the load across without you touching anything.

The honest catch. Going 24V means a 24V battery bank and a DC-DC converter to feed your 12V loads - lights, fridge, fans, radio. That is a real cost and a real decision. If your rig is already 12V throughout and working, the 12/3000 is the less disruptive buy. If you are starting from an empty bed or a fresh build, start here and do it once.

Specifications
Inverter: 3000VA / 2400W continuous, pure sine wave, 120VAC
Charger: 70A at 24V, 2 banks
Charger input: 120VAC
Transfer switch: 50A
PowerAssist, PowerControl, external current transformer option
UL 458 listed
Weight: 48.25 lb
Manufacturer part number: PMP242305102