This is the unit most people should buy if they are moving to electric cooking. It is three things at once: a 3000VA pure sine inverter, a 120-amp battery charger, and a 50-amp transfer switch that hands the load back and forth automatically when you plug in.

Why 3000VA and not 2000. Inverters are sold in VA, and VA is not watts. A unit badged 2000VA is 1600W continuous. A portable induction hob on its top setting pulls 1500 to 1800W. Buy the 2000 and you are running at the ceiling every time you boil water; buy this and you have headroom, which is the difference between cooking and watching an inverter trip.

PowerAssist is the feature nobody tells you about. Plugged into a 15-amp campsite outlet, the MultiPlus will quietly add battery power on top of the shore supply instead of tripping the pedestal breaker. You can run the hob and the charger at the same time off a circuit that could not support either alone.

Know what you are asking of the battery. At 12V, 1800W of cooking is roughly 155 amps of DC draw. That needs a lithium bank that can deliver it, 4/0 cable on short runs, and a fuse sized to match. This is not a unit you wire with what is in the parts drawer. If you are starting a build from scratch rather than upgrading one, read the 24V note below before you buy.

Specifications
Inverter: 3000VA, pure sine wave, 120VAC output
Charger: 120A at 12V, 1+1 banks, adaptive multi-stage
Transfer switch: 50A
Charger input: 94-140VAC
Inverter input range: 9.3-17VDC
PowerAssist and PowerControl
Weight: 49.5 lb
Manufacturer part number: PMP123021102

12V or 24V? At 24V the same 1800W of cooking draws about 78 amps instead of 155 — half the current, half the cable, a far easier install. If your vehicle is already 12V throughout, stay 12V. If you are building from nothing, the 24/3000 is the better engineering answer.